Saltimbocca alla Romana

Saltimbocca alla Romana
Saltimbocca is a classic Roman veal dish. In fact, it is so typically Roman that the name Saltimbocca alla Romana seems redundant to me. But, that’s what it was called on my father’s menu, so I am sticking with it.

This is a great dish to serve for company. Plate it over some sautèed spinach and it will make quite an impression. The literal translation of saltimbocca is “jump in the mouth”, and that’s precisely what this tasty combination of veal, prosciutto, sage and white wine will do.

Saltimbocca alla Romana Recipe

Prep time: | Cook time: | Total time:

Serves 4

8 slices prosciutto
8 veal scalloppine, thinly sliced and pounded
flour spread on a plate for dredging
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
8 sage leaves
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup chicken broth
salt and pepper to taste

  1. Place one slice of prosciutto on each veal scalloppine and pound in lightly with a meat pounder.
  2. Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Dredge both sides of the scalloppine in flour to coat, shaking off any excess. Place them prosciutto side down in pan and cook, turning once, until lightly browned on both sides. Transfer to a warm plate.
  3. Drain oil from pan, place back over heat and add butter. When butter is melted add sage and sauté for one minute.
  4. Add the white wine and scrape loose any bits from bottom of pan, then add the chicken broth and salt and pepper.
  5. Place scalloppine back in pan, prosciutto side up and cook until sauce is reduced by half and scalloppine are heated through.
  6. Transfer veal to serving plates, two scalloppine per person, spoon sauce over top and serve.
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The Great Cherry Pepper Hunt of 2011

Stuffed Peppers
The week after Christmas, I was chatting with my friend Mark on IM. He was telling me about the Christmas Eve fish dinner his Mother (she is originally from Naples) made. He was running down the list, Linguine con Vongole, Fried Calamari, etc. While it sounded like a great dinner, it didn’t really excite me that much, because I am allergic to shellfish. But, all of a sudden he said “Vinegar Peppers stuffed with anchovies.” I stopped him dead in his tracks, I had to know about these peppers. As he told me about the stuffing, my mouth started to water: bread, anchovies, olives, pignoli. I had to make them.

I had one question though, what kind of peppers? I figured they weren’t hot cherry peppers, but you never see sweet cherry peppers in the store anymore. He told me they were the sweet cherry peppers, but they are really hard to find. His mom keeps an eye out for them all year long, the ones she used this year (Sclafani brand) she bought in June! Still, I figured I could find them somehow, so I needed the recipe. Mark promptly got her on the phone, and transcribed the recipe into IM:

very difficult to take the stem and seeds out
slow
take stem and seeds out
very difficult
good italian bread in food processor
just the white
in the food processor also put chopped garlic and parseley
put in a bowl
add to bowl anchovies, quantity: you know, depending on phil
add to bowl capers, quantity: COME ON, same, depending on phil!!!
add to bowl olives: sliced black olives, quantity: depends
add to bowl pinnoli: quantity: depends
add to bowl shredded parmesan cheese
add to bowl olive oil
add to bowl a little water, enough to make it formeable
needs to bee done by hands
fill vinegar peppers
and then fry them UPSIDE DOWN until brown, flip and then cook bottom
let cool, very important
eat!!!

Not exactly a precise recipe, but that’s pretty much how my father always gives me recipes, so I could work with it. Now I had to procure the hard to find sweet cherry peppers. I knew I could probably order them over the internet, but I wanted to try finding them in a store if I could, for two reasons: first I didn’t want to have to pay for shipping, which can be kind of high with food products. Second, the thrill of the chase!

I tried every local supermarket, nothing. Checked deli’s and food specialty stores. Even called places I knew carried Sclafani products, “You mean Hot Cherry Peppers,” they asked? Talking to me like I was a Martian. Having no luck, I turned to the Internet. I found the Sclafani Sweet Cherry Peppers here and ordered them. I got a PayPal payment confirmation email and nothing else.

After over a month, I called the contact phone number, and got a guy on a cell phone. He informed me that the only place they are shipped from was in North Carolina, and they had been closed down since the Holidays due to a snow storm, and he did not know when they would be shipping. He then told me that if I ever wanted to order again to just call his cell phone instead of using the web site, and he would take care of me.

Needless to say, I was not confident they would ever come. So, back to the internet. I found Mezzette brand cherry peppers at www.buythecase.net (they are not there anymore), and ordered a case. They came within a couple of weeks, but the peppers were tiny and I was worried they would be too small, and a pain to stuff. The very next day the Sclafani’s showed up at my doorstep.

I decided I would try both, the tiny Mezzete peppers and the larger Sclafani. Even though the small ones were a little tougher to stuff, I got the hang pretty quickly, and I have to say I preferred them to the larger ones.

Stuffed Vinegar Peppers Recipe

1 loaf Italian bread
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsely, chopped
8 anchovies, chopped
10 oil-cured black olives, pitted and sliced
2 tablespoons capers
1 tablespoon pine nuts (pignoli)
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmagianno-Reggiano Cheese
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
12-15 jarred sweet cherry peppers
vegetable oil for frying

  1. Take the white from the Italian bread and place it in a food processor, and pulse until ground coarse. Should make about 1 cup, you, may not need to use whole loaf. Add the garlic and parsley and pulse until well combined. Transfer to a bowl.
  2. Add the anchovies, olives, capers, pine nuts, cheese and olive oil. Mix well, adding a tablespoon or two of cold water, to make it easy to handle.
  3. Using a small paring knife, cut each pepper around the stem, removing the stem, then with either the paring knife or your hands clean out the seeds, from inside the pepper. Stuff the peppers with the stuffing
  4. Fill a medium sautè pan about a quarter of the way up with vegetable oil, and heat over medium heat. When oil is hot, add peppers, top down and cook until top is browned, flip and cook a few minutes more.
  5. Transfer to a serving plate and let cool to room temperature before serving, or refrigerating for later.
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My Favorite Weeknight Pasta Dish

Pasta With Grape Tomatoes
For me, a good weeknight dinner must possess two essential qualities:

  1. It must be relatively quick and easy to prepare.
  2. It has to be tasty enough to make me actually want to cook after a hard day at work. It’s much easier to get motivated if, as the work day ends, I am eagerly anticipating dinner.

My favorite weeknight pasta dish, Pasta with Grape Tomatoes, satisfies both of those requirements perfectly. I have been making this dish so regularly lately that every time I am in the supermarket I pick up a pint of grape tomatoes knowing that I will be using them in the near future. My wife, Sandy, likes capellini and I like spaghetti, so the spaghettini became our little compromise. But, you can actually use any pasta you prefer or happen to have on hand.

Pasta with Grape Tomatoes Recipe

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Serves 4

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 large garlic cloves sliced thin
1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes, sliced in half
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
salt to taste
1 pound spaghettini pasta
2 large basil leaves, torn into pieces by hand
freshly grated Parmagiano-Reggiano cheese for serving

  1. Add olive oil and garlic to a large sautè pan over medium heat. Cook until garlic is lightly browned, then add the sliced tomatoes, red pepper flakes, and salt.
  2. Saute the tomatoes until they are softened and have started to release their juices, about 5 minutes.
  3. Meanwhile, bring a pot of liberally salted water to a boil, add pasta and cook until al dente.
  4. Strain pasta and transfer to the sautè pan with the sauce. Add the basil, and toss until completely coated.
  5. Dish out into individual serving bowls and serve with grated Parmagiano-Reggiano.
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Sunday Dinner: Green and White Pappardelle Bolognese

Pappardelle Bolognese

A few weeks back I was at Borgatti’s pasta shop, down in the Arthur Avenue area in the Bronx. While I was waiting for my ravioli I saw the guy at the counter cutting up some sheets of green(spinach) and white pasta into pappardelle. It looked so good I thought of getting some for myself, but ended up leaving with just the ravioli.

Cutting Pappardelle

The image of that pappardelle haunted me the rest of the day, I really regretted not getting some. On the way back to Connecticut, we stopped at my parent’s house, and I told my Mom about it. “That would be great with Bolognese sauce,” Mom said. “I love Pappardelle Bolognese.” The seed was officially planted.

This past Sunday I did not make it down to Arthur Avenue, but I did buy some sheets of green and white pasta from a local pasta shop. I took them home and cut them into pappardelle, which are usually 3/4 to 1 inch wide ribbons of pasta, and substituted them into my Tagliatelle alla Bolognese recipe. Perfect for Sunday dinner.

Green and White Pappardelle

So, that’s my recommendation to you for Sunday dinner this weekend, make a nice Bolognese sauce and toss it with some fresh pappardelle pasta. If you can find both spinach and regular pasta, great. If not just use white. Substitute it for the tagliatelle in the recipe below and you are good to go.

Recipe:
Tagliatelle alla Bolognese

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Sausage Lasagna

Sausage Lasagna

The magic of sausage! It can take an ordinary lasagna and turn it into something special. Yet, even before the sausage, this is no ordinary lasagna. Fresh homemade pasta for the noodles, the Ricotta-Béchamel sauce from Chef Silvia’s Hand Rolled Lasagna and fresh mozzarrella already take this to another level. Add the sausage and it’s breathing down the neck of the venerable Lasagna Verde Bolognese in the race for the title of my favorite lasagna.

Sausage Lasagna Recipe

Prep time: | Cook time: | Total time:

2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 medium yellow onion, chopped fine
1 pound sweet Italian sausage meat (stuffing from 4 links)
1 35oz can of imported Italian tomatoes
salt & pepper to taste
3 fresh basil leaves
1 recipe Ricotta-Béchamel (see below)
1 pound of fresh mozzarella cut into small cubes
3/4 cup freshly grated Parmagiano-Reggiano cheese
1 recipe of homemade fresh pasta rolled out and cut into 13 inch long pieces

  1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
  2. Heat olive oil in a medium sauce pan over medium-high heat. Add onion and sautè, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes.
  3. Add sausage meat, and salt & pepper to taste. Cook, stirring occasionally until sausage is browned approximately 10 minutes.
  4. In a large bowl, crush the tomatoes with your hands then add them with their juices to the pan. Add 1/2 cup of water and bring to a simmer. Turn heat to low and let simmer until thickened, about 30 minutes. At the very end of cooking, tear the basil leaves into pieces with your hands and stir into the sauce. Remove the sauce from the heat.
  5. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In 3 batches add the lasagna sheets to the boiling water and cook until just under al dente. Remove the noodles from the pot using a slotted spoon, place in a colander, rinse under cold water to stop the cooking and spread out on clean kitchen towels.
  6. Spread 1 cup sauce over bottom of a 13×9-inch glass baking dish. Cover with a layer of 2 to 3 lasagna noodles, overlaping slightly to fit. Spread 1/3 of the Ricotta-Béchamel mixture on the noodles, top with 1 cup of the sauce. Spread 1/4 of the mozzarella over the sauce. Sprinkle 1/4 cup of parmaggiano-reggiano and top with a layer of lasagna noodles.
  7. Repeat this 2 more times. Cover the final layer of lasagna noodles with the remaining sauce and sprinkle remaining cup of mozzarella on top.
  8. Cover baking dish with aluminum foil, place in oven and cook for 60 minutes. Remove foil and cook until cheese is melted about 5 minutes more. Remove from oven and let sit 15 minutes before slicing and serving.

Ricotta-Béchamel Filling

4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons unbleached white flour
1 cup whole milk
1 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese
Salt and pepper to taste

Prep time: | Cook time: | Total time:

  1. Melt the butter in a medium sauce pan over low heat. Add the flour and stir with a wire whisk until it forms a paste.
  2. Slowly add the milk to the butter and flour mixture, whisking until smooth.
  3. Continue to cook over low heat, stirring occasionally until the mixture is thick and smooth, it should coat the back of a spoon.
  4. Remove from heat and refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes.
  5. Remove from refrigerator, add the ricotta, salt and pepper, and stir until well combined.
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Biscotti

Biscotti


There is an Italian bakery in Bridgeport, CT called Del Prete, and they make these great mini biscotti. They are the perfect size for dunking in an espresso or a glass of vin santo. I usually get the chocolate and the almond from Del Prete, but have been making butterscotch biscotti off and on for a few years, and thought I would try making them smaller like those from Del Prete. I also wanted to try making chocolate.

The recipe I have adapted for the butterscotch biscotti is actually one my mother clipped from a newspaper 20 years ago. I don’t know what newspaper it was, but the recipe is one that was sent in by a reader, and it was called Grandmom Arcuri’s Butterscotch “Biscotti”. The quotes around the word biscotti were apparently because they eliminated the second baking in their recipe. Since biscotti actually means twice baked, I guess you could say they were not technically “biscotti”. Anyway, Grandmom Arcuri wherever you are, thanks.

Butterscotch Biscotti Recipe

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3 large eggs
1 cup sugar
1 stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1 teaspoon almond extract
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 cup butterscotch chips
1 large egg beaten in a bowl

  1. Preheat oven to 350F and line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
  2. In a large bowl whisk together eggs and sugar until light and fluffy. Whisk in butter and almond extract until combined.
  3. In a small bowl whisk together flour and baking powder, then stir it into the egg mixture in the large bowl and fold in the butterscotch chips.
  4. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and divide it into 4 pieces. Roll each piece into a log and transfer two logs to each baking sheet, evenly spaced apart.
  5. Stretch and flatten out the logs until they are the length of the baking sheet and 2 inches wide.
  6. Brush the tops of the dough with the beaten egg, then place in the oven and bake for 25 minutes.
  7. Remove from the oven and let cool for 15 minutes. Using a serrated bread knife, cut each log diagonally in to 1 inch thick slices. Place biscotti back on baking sheet, return to oven and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on how hard you like your biscotti.
Espresso With Biscotti

For the chocolate biscotti recipe, I did a hybrid of the butterscotch recipe and David Leibovitz’s Chocolate Biscotti. I went to his recipe to get the measurements for the amount of chocolate, but I like the texture the butter in the butterscotch recipe lends.

Chocolate Biscotti Recipe

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3 large eggs
1 cup sugar
1 stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1 teaspoon almond extract
2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup cocoa powder
1 tablespoon baking powder
3/4 cup chocolate chips
1 large egg beaten in a bowl

  1. Preheat oven to 350F and line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
  2. In a large bowl whisk together eggs and sugar until light and fluffy. Whisk in butter and almond extract until combined.
  3. In a small bowl sift together flour, cocoa powder and baking powder, then stir it into the egg mixture in the large bowl and fold in the chocolate chips.
  4. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and divide it into 4 pieces. Roll each piece into a log and transfer two logs to each baking sheet, evenly spaced apart.
  5. Stretch and flatten out the logs until they are the length of the baking sheet and 2 inches wide.
  6. Brush the tops of the dough with the beaten egg, then place in the oven and bake for 25 minutes.
  7. Remove from the oven and let cool for 15 minutes. Using a serrated bread knife, cut each log diagonally in to 1 inch thick slices. Place biscotti back on baking sheet, return to oven and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on how hard you like your biscotti.
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